This is probably a weird way to start out, since I’m going to cover blackjack rules differently than I will other games. With other games, I will explain the rules in one post, then come back to strategy. Because your play at a blackjack table affects other players, however, I’m going to cover the rules and some very basic strategy in the same post here. There’s no law that says that if you’re walking slowly on a sidewalk, you should move over for faster walkers, is there? But there should be. Blackjack is the same way.
First, the object. The object of blackjack is simple. Players play only against the dealer, not against other players. The goal is to get as close to 21 as possible without going over. For the purposes of simplicity, I will use the most common form of blackjack here, ignoring bonus bets of any kind. That is, I will explain the game as it is played from a 4, 6, or 8 deck shoe, with blackjacks paying 3 to 2. Be aware, some games are played differently, and I will try to address those in upcoming posts.
The steps to blackjack
Step one: bet
Players who wish to play the game may join at any time, although in some parts of the country, it is rude, and in some variations, against the rules, to join mid-shoe (the shoe is the plastic box from which the cards are dealt, but in this sense, is the group of cards contained within the deck). There will be a box or a circle in front of each player. Many players assume this is for the cards. It is not, it is for their bets. Place your bets in the box before the dealer sweeps her hand across the table twice (once each way) to be dealt in on the hand.
Step 2: Dealing
The dealer will now deal each player two cards, one at a time, going clockwise starting to his or her left. The players’ cards and one of the dealers’ cards are dealt face up. The dealer’s second (or in some casinos first) card is dealt face down.
Step 3:
Play. Each player, starting to the dealer’s left, is given several options. For now, we’ll stick to the basics, of hit or stay. With the exceptions of some special bets which will be discussed later, a player may hit as few or as many times as they’d like, until they go over 21. The goal, again, is to get closer than the dealer to 21, without going over. If you get 22 or higher, you automatically lose. This is called breaking or busting.
If a player’s first two cards equal 21 (An Ace and either a ten or a face card), the player has blackjack and wins an immediate 3 to 2 payout (at most casinos, at most tables; though sometimes blackjacks pay 6 to 5, mostly on single or double deck pitch tables).
After all players have acted, the dealer will expose their down card, and play according to set rules. The dealer always hits to 17, and then stays. The only variation in this is that some casinos have the dealer hit on a “soft” 17 (A/6, which can be a 7 or a 17), and others have them stay. The table should say either “Dealer stands on all 17s” or “Dealer must hit on soft 17.” If the dealer breaks, everyone who did not already break wins.
Now, some details
Cards 2 through 10 carry their usual values.
Face cards are always worth 10 points.
Aces can be worth 1 or 11 points, and that choice is always the player’s to make when deciding whether to hit or stay.
To hit, a player should tap or lightly scratch or brush the felt of the table. To stay, a player should wave one hand over the felt parallel to the table.
The basics of strategy
Yes, I said the basics of strategy, not basic strategy, which I will cover in a separate post.
If played ideally, and without counting cards, the advantage on blackjack is about 0.26%. That means that for every $100 played, the casino should keep just over one quarter. This is a deceptively low number unless you are used to thinking in terms of casino holds for three reasons: First, this is assuming that a player makes no strategic mistakes, which is much harder than most players think. Second, it is on all money played, not on the player’s buy in. That is, if you buy in with $100, but win some, and actually play 6 $25 hands, your money played is actually $150, not the $100 you bought in for. Make sense? Third, luck is blind. Just because there is a 0.26% hold does not mean that you will only lose 26 cents every hand that you play $100. It does not even mean that you will only lose 26 cents per every $100 that you play that night. For that matter, it does not even mean that you will only lose 0.26% over your career. It means that in the long run, all the people who play perfect strategy should average giving the casino about 0.26%.
My recomendation to everyone who wants to do well at blackjack would be to purchase a strategy book or card, or sometimse the used decks casinos give out or sell have a strategy card in them. Please read this at home, before you get to the table. Nothing annoys me more than someone sitting at a blackjack table and reading their card before every single hand. Keep it with you to consult on the tough hands, but you should have the basics down before you sit.
Now, the basic idea of the game is that there are 4 ways to pull a 10 at any given time, versus one way to pull a card of any other value. This means that you should generally assume that any card that you cannot see will be a 10.
In blackjack, the dealer’s “up card” is at least as imortant as the player’s two cards in determining how to play. There are four basic scenarios.
1) The dealer has a 7-10 showing. In this case, you assume the dealer has a 17, 18, 19, or 20. Hit until your cards total 17, or soft 18. Soft hands are hands which use an ace. For instance, a hand with a 7 and an A is a “soft 18.” Some players will call these hands 8 or 18 as well. NOTE: A 7/10/A hand is NOT a “soft 18.” It is a hard 18, because using the ace as an 11 would cause the dealer to bust. One of the most common, and unexcusable mistakes, is to stand on a 16 against a 7. But won’t you bust if you have a 16? First of all, yes, you are more likely to bust. Ignoring all the cards on the table and in the discard, you have an 8/13 chance of busting, and a 5/13 chance of not busting. But, remember that the dealer has a 4/13 chance of having a 17, and an enormous chance of having a 17, 18, 8, 9, 10, or 11. All of these hands beat a 16. If the dealer almost certainly has you beat, it makes sense to risk busting because you still have a 5/13 chance of improving your hand and possibly beating the dealer. So, although it is tough until you get used to it, you should always hit a 16 against a dealer 7. This is the most obvious tell of whether someone is an ameteur or a regular player.
2) The dealer has a 4-6 showing. These are known as bust cards, because the dealer is statistically very likely to bust. With a 6, for instance, again, ignoring all cards in the discard and on the table, there is an 8/13 chance that the dealer will bust. With a 4 showing, it is still a 6/13 chance. This is not accounting for the possibility that they do not bust or pull at least 17 on the second card. In this case, they are again likely to bust. In these cases, hit only to hard 12. Soft hands are more discretionary. This scenario is the main reason I am including any strategy at all in the basic rules information. Not only are you likely to lose if you hit a 12 against a 6, but, you are likely to lose the rest of the table money, and piss the whole table off. For instance, if you hit your 12, draw a 10, and get a 22. You bust, losing your bet. Everyone else stays. The dealer has 16, as expected, and hits. They now draw a 5. If you had played according to strategy, the dealer would have had 10, and busted with 26. Instead, they have 21. You just lost the entire table money. Never hit a hard 12 or higher against a 4, 5, or 6.
3) The dealer shows a 2 or 3. I will do a whole separate post explaining this one in detail. This is tricky and really depends on the number of decks, what blackjacks pay, and other factors specific to the table. The basic rule, however, is to hit to hard 14 against a 2 or a 3. Again, I will explain the logic and math of this in another post. This is another sure tell of when someone is a rooky versus an experienced player. A lot of mid-level players will actually yell at other players for “taking the dealer’s bust card” by hitting a 12 or 13 against a dealer 2 or 3. They are wrong. 2’s and 3’s are not bust cards.
4) The dealer is showing an ace. This scenario should be played very similarly to scenario 1, but is a little bit trickier because once the dealer confirms that they do not have a blackjack, you have no idea what the dealer has, other than that it is not a face card. All other cards have equal probabilities.
Now, for the complicated bets, which will make more sense when we cover strategy. You should know these, in case they come up in play.
First, insurance and even money. If the dealer has a 10 or an A for an upcard, they will check to see if they have blackjack before players act. With a 10, players have no options. With an Ace, however, players are offered insurance and even money. Insurance is available to any player, and is a bet equal to half of the player’s main bet. The bet is actually a bet that the dealer does have blackjack. The idea here is that a player is given the opportunity to lower their bet. If the dealer has blackjack, they lose their main bet, but win half of it back. If the dealer does not have blackjack, and the player beats them, the player still wins, but only half of what they otherwise would. Insurance is not a wise bet because there is a third possibility. The dealer could not have blackjack, but still beat the player. Then the player lost extra money. Even money is only available to players with blackjack. This is an opportunity for players to win 1 to 1 on their bet instead of pushing. The problem is, the 3 to 2 payout is a major reason that the house advantage on blackjack is so low. Yes, winning something is better than winning nothing. But, given that there is a 4/13 chance of the dealer having blackjack (approximately) and a 9/13 chance of them not having blackjack, they are more than twice as likely to not have a blackjack. And remember, unless the dealer gets 21 on their first two cards any player who has blackjack gets paid 3 to 2.
Splitting. Splitting is an option when players have two cards which match in value. That is, two cards of the same rank, or two face cards. When players split a hand, they must put a second bet out, equal to the value of their original bet, and hold two fingers out (for the surviellance cameras). The dealer will then move their cards apart, and instead of, for instance, an 8/8 (16) hand, the player will now play two separate hands, each starting with an 8. Strategy for splitting will be discussed later. Importantly, however, you should see if there are any special rules about splitting before you attempt to split. The standard rule is that players may split any pair, but may only draw one card on an A.
Doubling. The rules for this bet vary from casino to casino and table to table. In general, a player is allowed to double any hand they would like. I will discuss when it is wise to do so in another post. Some casinos, however, only allow a player to double on 8, 9, 10, or 11. Doubling allows the player to increase their bet, but in return, they may only draw one more card. The player puts an additonal bet behind their original bet (not on top of it). They then hold out one finger to signify to the dealer and the camera that they want to double. They are given one card (sometimes face up, sometimes face down), and may not draw again. It is legal to double for less than your original bet, but it is not advised. That is, you are technicaly allowed to bet an additional $3 if your original bet is $5. It is not smart, though.
Surrender. Surrendering is an option in some (I believe it is fewer than it used to be) casinos. This option allows a player who believes that their hand is too bad to play to discard their cards and keep half of their original bet.
Sorry this post was so long. If anyone has any advice about formatting or making these posts more readable, please let me know. My guess is that most of the game intros will be long like this. When I do strategy, however, I’ll likely focus in more specifically.